Clea Gaultier - Do It Again

French fashion designer

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean-Paul Gaultier.jpg

Gaultier in 2006

Built-in (1952-04-24) 24 April 1952 (age 69) [1]

Arcueil, French republic

Characterization(southward)

  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Hermès (2003–2010)
Partner(s) Francis Menuge (from 1975; died 1990)[ii]
Relatives
  • Richard Bernard Gauthier
  • Craig Hatton
Website jeanpaulgaultier.com

Jean Paul Gaultier [a] (French: [ʒɑ̃ pɔl ɡotje]; born 24 April 1952)[1] is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter mode designer. He is described equally an "enfant terrible" of the fashion industry and is known for his unconventional designs with motifs including corsets, marinières, and tin cans. Gaultier founded his self-titled fashion characterization in 1982, and expanded with a line of fragrances in 1993. He was the artistic managing director for French luxury house Hermès from 2003 to 2010, and retired following his 50th-anniversary haute couture prove during Paris Fashion Week in January 2020.[iii]

Aside from his work in the way manufacture, Gaultier co-presented the first seven series of the tv series Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes from 1993–1997.

Biography [edit]

Early on life [edit]

Gaultier grew upward in a suburb of Paris. His mother was a clerk and his begetter an accountant. It was his maternal grandmother, Marie Garrabe, who introduced him to the world of fashion.[four]

He never received formal training as a designer. Instead, he began to ship sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970.[5] And then he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later that twelvemonth again worked for Cardin managing the Pierre Cardin bazaar in Manila for a year until 1974.[four] Despite Gaultier'due south youth, Cardin sent him to Manila to manage the local office. Imelda Marcos was 1 of his clients. He constitute himself on a "no leave" list and had to pretend to have a family emergency in order to leave. He never returned. [6]

Mode career [edit]

Gaultier's first private drove was released in 1976.[five] Although virtually people found his designs corrupt at the time, fashion editors, notably Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, were impressed by his creativity and mastery of tailoring, and later launched his career.[7] [8] [9] [10] [11] In 1980, he designed women's dresses out of plastic trash bags.[12] Gaultier founded his eponymous manner label in 1982.[13] His 1983 drove "Boy Toy" relaunched the marinière for men.[14] His garments were on sale at Bergdorf Goodman in New York as shortly as 1984, and already lauded past Dawn Mello and Polly Allen Mellen. The term "Gaultiered" was coined to describe the archetype pieces that were reinterpreted by the designer. [13] During the 1984 Fall London and Paris shows, Jean Paul Gaultier introduced his line of skirts for men (actually kilts), a breakthrough in men'southward fashion that stirred a bit of controversy.[15] In 1984 he likewise introduced the iconic women's corset with cone bra.[xvi] Gaultier has likewise worked in close collaboration with Wolford Hosiery.[17] [eighteen]

By 1985, his company made $fifty one thousand thousand in sales worldwide.[xix] In the 1985 movie Desperately Seeking Susan, Madonna wore a skirt with men'due south suspenders she had bought from Gaultier.[20] Besides his ready-to-wear collection, in 1988 Gaultier expanded his brand to include the label Inferior Gaultier, a lower-priced line of products.[21] The Inferior Gaultier outfit was selected by Jeff Banks as the Clothes of the Yr.[22] In 1988, he also recorded the music video How to do that.[23] At the end of the 1980s he invented a new look for the French accordionist Yvette Horner which relaunched her career.[24] In 1990, he designed Madonna'due south clothes for her Blond Appetite World Tour.[21] [25]

At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, and in 1990 his boyfriend and business organisation partner, Francis Menuge, died of AIDS-related causes.[26] [21] Information technology is also effectually that time that he decided to tone downwardly his showmanship and started to plan more intimate events.[20]

Gaultier launched a line of fragrances (Classique) in 1993.[21] The Inferior Gaultier characterization was replaced in 1994 with JPG past Gaultier, a unisex collection that followed the designer's thought of fluidity of the sexes. Gaultier Jean's, a similar line consisting mainly of denim and more merely styled garments with a heavy street influence, followed in 1992, which was then replaced with Jean's Paul Gaultier from 2004 to 2008. Inferior Gaultier's name was reused in 2009 for the launching of the kid's habiliment, to be completed with a Baby Line in 2011.

In 1998, Jean Paul Gaultier'south company generated €12.nine one thousand thousand ($xiii.2 million) in sales. In 1999, Hermès caused 35% of Gaultier'due south label for 150 million francs ($23 million). Jean Paul Gaultier owned 93% of his visitor prior to this deal.[27] [28] In 2002, Gaultier's label opened its first fully-fledged stand up-alone store.[29] Then, from 2003 to 2010, Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès[thirty] where he succeeded Martin Margiela.[31] Hermès after increased its stake in Jean Paul Gaultier to 45%.[30] Past 2008, twoscore Jean Paul Gaultier stores opened worldwide.[29]

He sponsored the 2003–04 exhibit in the Costume Institute of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art entitled "Braveheart: Men in Skirts", which showed designs past Dries van Noten, Vivienne Westwood, and Rudi Gernreich in addition to Gaultier's in social club to examine "designers and individuals who accept appropriated the skirt as a means of injecting novelty into male way, as a ways of transgressing moral and social codes, and as a means of redefining an ideal masculinity."[32] [33] He also designed some furniture for the French furniture brand Roche Bobois[34] and an Evian bottle in 2008.[35] Gaultier's spring 2009 couture was influenced by the visual mode of vocalizer Klaus Nomi,[36] and he used Nomi's recording of "Cold Song" in his runway show.[37]

In 2011, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier organized a retrospective exhibit, "The Way Globe of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk."[38] That exhibit is on tour with venues at the Swedish Centre for Compages and Design (Arkitektur- och designcentrum, ArkDes) in Stockholm,[5] the Brooklyn Museum in New York Urban center,[39] the Barbican Centre in London,[xl] the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne,[41] and the Grand Palais in Paris. The exhibition in Paris, which took place from April to August 2015, was the subject of a documentary called Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais aired exclusively on Eurochannel.[42] In 2012, he participated in the Cali ExpoShow in Cali (Colombia), showing his all-encompassing collection of perfumes and all classic apparel.[43]

Up until 2014, he designed for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, for both men and women. At the spring/summer 2022 testify he announced that he was closing the fix-to-wear labels to focus on haute couture.[44] In 2016, he designed more than than 500 costumes for the revue THE ONE 1000 Show at Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin.

In 2018, he staged a cabaret show that was loosely based on his life called "Mode Freak Show" which took identify at the Folies Bergere theater in Paris.[45] In 2019, Gaultier collaborated with the New York streetwear brand Supreme.

He announced on 17 January 2022 that his next Paris haute couture manner show would be his last and that he was retiring from the runway.[45]

Music and Television set career [edit]

In 1988, Gaultier released a dance single titled "How To Do That" on Fontana Records, from which came one of the offset ever "single title" remix albums, Aow Tou Dou Zat, on Mercury Records.[46] The anthology includes mixes past Norman Cook, J. J. Jeczalik, George Shilling, Mark Saunders, Latin Rascals, David Dorrell, Tim Atkins, Carl Atkins, and Kurtis Mantronik. Information technology was co-written and produced by Tony Mansfield, and video directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino.[47] The album also featured a collaboration with squeeze box player Yvette Horner.

Gaultier is known as Eurovision enthusiast, and since 1991, he'south dressed several of France'southward entrants. In Eurovision Song Contest 2006, he dressed Greek entrant Anna Vissi, where she performed in homesoil. He commented the last of Eurovision Song Contest 2008 with Julien Lepers on France Télévisions.[48] He designed the clothes that Anggun wore as she represented French republic during the grand-finals of the Eurovision Song Contest 2012 held in Baku, Azerbaijan.[49] In Eurovision Song Competition 2013 he dressed the host Petra Mede.[fifty]

Starting in 1993, he co-hosted the Channel four programme Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. Gaultier hosted the show until 1997.[51]

In 2012, he was named equally a member of the Jury for the Main Competition at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival.[52] This was the first time a style designer was called to sit on a jury at the festival.[53]

Products [edit]

Classique fragrance

Ultra Male fragrance

A canteen of the women's fragrance Classique (left) and a bottle of the men'due south fragrance Ultra Male (right)

  • Style labels:
    • Jean Paul Gaultier
    • Gaultier PARIS (couture collection)
    • old JEAN'S Paul Gaultier
    • former Eyewear Jean Paul Gaultier
    • former Jean Paul Gaultier Silvery.
  • Women's fragrance lines:
    • Classique (1993): List of flanker fragrances
    • Delicate (2000): Fragile Eau de Toilette (2001)
    • Ma Dame (2008): Ma Dame Eau Fraiche (2009); Ma Dame Rose 'n Coil (2009); Ma Dame Eau de Parfum (2010); Ma Dame Eau Fraiche Summertime 2010; Ma Dame It (2011)
    • Scandal (2017): Scandal by Nighttime (2018); Scandal a Paris (2019); So Scandal! (2020)
  • Men's fragrance lines:
    • Le Male person (1995): Listing of flanker fragrances
    • Monsieur (2008)
    • Kokorico (2011): Kokorico by Night (2012)
    • Scandal Pour Homme (2021)
  • Unisex fragrance lines:
    • Gaultier² (2005): Gaultier² Eau d'Flirtation (2008)

The fragrance house includes women's, men's, and unisex fragrances; a number of flanker fragrances have been released for each line.[54] Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances have been licensed by Puig since 1 Jan 2016, and were previously licensed by Shiseido subsidiary Beauté Prestige International from 1991 through 31 December 2015. The BPI license was originally negotiated through xxx June 2016;[55] nonetheless, Puig acquired the license for $79.2 million and paid $22.6 million for the early termination of the license.[56] With this purchase, Puig now holds control of both the way and fragrance divisions of the Jean Paul Gaultier brand.[57] The 1993 women'due south oriental floral Classique and the 1995 men's oriental fougere Le Male have been described by the brand as "flagship" products that "correspond all the Jean Paul Gaultier values".[58] Le Male was the peak-selling men's fragrance in the European Union in 2012, and holds a strong market position in Australia and the Us.[59]

Equally of May 2020[update], the Classique,[60] Le Male,[61] and Scandal lines are in production.[62]

Style [edit]

Jean Paul Gaultier's characteristic irreverent style dating from 1981 has led to his being known as the enfant terrible of French fashion.

Many of Gaultier's subsequent collections have been based on street wear, focusing on pop culture, whereas others, particularly his haute couture collections, are very formal, all the same at the same time unusual and playful.[63] Jean Paul Gaultier says he is inspired by the baby boomers' Tv set culture,[19] and the street culture where audacity sometimes triggers new trends.[xv] His main inspirations are the French popular civilisation, the mixing of types and genders, sexual fetishism and futurist designs.[64]

The advent of his haute couture line brought him massive success in 1997. Through this collection, he was able to freely express the telescopic and range of his aesthetic, cartoon inspiration from radically divergent cultures, from Imperial Republic of india to Hasidic Judaism.[65]

Gaultier caused stupor by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, like older men and full-figured women, pierced and heavily tattooed models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This earned him both criticism and enormous popularity.[5] The "granny grey" hair color trend is attributed to Gaultier, whose autumn/wintertime 2011 testify featured models in greyness beehives. In the jump of 2015, his catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week featured silverish-haired models once more, every bit did the shows of other fashion designers, Chanel and Gareth Pugh. The trend before long took off amongst celebrities and the full general public.[66]

Notable designs [edit]

  • Madonna: Gaultier produced sculptured costumes during the nineties, starting with her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Appetite World Tour, and the wardrobe for her 2006 Confessions Tour.[67]
  • Björk: The Icelandic artist modeled for him in 1994, and appeared on this occasion in Robert Altman's motion-picture show Prêt à Porter.
  • Marilyn Manson: [68] Gaultier has designed some of the costumes and outfits, including for The Golden Age of Grotesque album.[69]
  • Mylène Farmer: In jump 2008 he signed a contract to be the way designer for her tour in 2009.[seventy]
  • Kerry Washington: Wearing apparel worn at the 2007 Cannes Film Festival.
  • Marion Cotillard: He designed the white and argent mermaid clothes she wore at the 80th Academy Awards in 2008 (Oscar for her performance in La Vie en Rose).[71] [72]
  • Lady Gaga: VMAs ruby-red rug in 2009.[73]
  • Rihanna : Grammys ruddy rug in 2011,[73] couture dress worn at the American Music Awards in 2013.[74]
  • Beyoncé: In the "Run The World (Girls) music video in 2011.[73]
  • Nicki Minaj.[73]
  • Kylie Minogue: He designed the costumes for the international KylieX2008 tour.
  • Leslie Cheung: Gaultier designed eight costumes for his last concert tour in 2000.[75]
  • Nik Thakkar: Gaultier created a digital first working with the artist and activist in 2013.[76]
  • Kim Kardashian: Grammys red rug in 2015.
  • Katy Perry: Vanity Off-white after-party in early 2017.
  • Solange Knowles: 2022 Glamour Women of the Twelvemonth Awards in New York City.[ commendation needed ]

Gallery [edit]

Filmography [edit]

Year Title Role Notes
1993 Eurotrash Presenter Television set series
2001 Absolument fabuleux Le créateur
2016 Absolutely Fabulous: The Moving picture Himself
2019 Huge in France (episode 7) Himself Netflix TV serial

Gaultier designed the wardrobe for many motion pictures, including:[77]

  • Luc Besson'south The 5th Element
  • Pedro Almodóvar'south Kika, Bad Teaching, and The Skin I Live In
  • Peter Greenaway'southward The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover
  • Marc Caro's and Jean-Pierre Jeunet'south The Urban center of Lost Children

Personal life [edit]

Gaultier had always had an interest in fashion. In school, he found himself at odds with his classmates; though he didn't fit in, they nonetheless wanted him to do drawings for them.

Uneasy with his sexuality, he was reassured when he learnt that some of the iconic fashion designers were as well gay or bisexual, as he wanted to work in fashion himself. He met his partner Francis Menuge, who helped him to become established and start running shows. Gaultier and Menuge both learned about AIDS during its advent, and both were tested. Menuge was HIV positive, and both Gaultier and Menuge'southward parents looked after him until his decease from AIDS.

In contempo years, Gaultier has focused less on fashion to wear, and more on haute couture and putting on shows. [78]

Notes [edit]

  1. ^ His first name is sometimes punctuated with a hyphen as Jean-Paul Gaultier.[1]

References [edit]

  1. ^ a b c Cost Alford, Holly; Stegemeyer, Anne (25 September 2014). Who's Who in Fashion. London: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 151. ISBN9781609019693.
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  3. ^ Davis, Dominic-Madori (1 February 2020). "Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving the manner industry afterwards fifty years. Hither'southward a expect dorsum at the legendary designer's career, from dressing Madonna to starting his own haute-couture house". Business organization Insider . Retrieved eleven May 2020.
  4. ^ a b Orlean, Susan (26 September 2011). "Fantasyland". The New Yorker . Retrieved thirty May 2015.
  5. ^ a b c d Skovmand, Ida (9 June 2013). "Ränderna går aldrig ur Jean Paul Gaultier" [Jean Paul Gaultier, the striped never fade]. Svenska Dagbladet. Svenska Dagbladet. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  6. ^ "Jean-Paul-Gaultiers-glittering-career " Stuff http://world wide web.stuff.co.nz/business/luxury/10567404/Jean-Paul-Gaultiers-glittering-career
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  24. ^ "Quand Jean Paul Gaultier relookait son amie Yvette Horner". Le HuffPost (in French). 12 June 2018. Retrieved 15 September 2020.
  25. ^ Hess, Liam. "The Story Behind Madonna'south Iconic Jean Paul Gaultier Cone Bra". Vogue . Retrieved xv September 2020.
  26. ^ Cole, Shaun (2002). "Gaultier, Jean-Paul". glbtq.com. Archived from the original on 12 November 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2007.
  27. ^ PENICAUT, Nicole (9 July 1999). "Jean-Paul Gaultier dans les jupons d'Hermès.Le groupe de luxe prend 35% du capital du couturier". Libération.fr (in French). Retrieved 15 September 2020.
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  31. ^ Odell, Amy (21 August 2009). "Jean Paul Gaultier to Leave Hermès?". nymag.com/thecut/. New York magazine. Retrieved xxx May 2015.
  32. ^ "Special Exhibitions: Bravehearts: Men in Skirts". Metropolitan Museum of Art . Retrieved ix January 2014.
  33. ^ Stevens, Mark (17 Nov 2003). "Dress Rehearsal". New York Mag . Retrieved 9 January 2014.
  34. ^ (in French) Maisonapart.com [one]
  35. ^ FR, FashionNetwork com. "Jean-Paul Gaultier revisite la bouteille Evian". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 15 September 2020.
  36. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Jump 2009". Women's Wear Daily. 28 Jan 2009.
  37. ^ Reddy, Sameer (29 January 2009). "Klaus! Kylie! Inès! JPG Loves The Eighties". Fashion.com. Retrieved iii February 2009.
  38. ^ "2011 Exhibits". Montreal Museum of Fine Arts . Retrieved 9 Jan 2014.
  39. ^ "Exhibitions: The Manner World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". Brooklyn Museum of Fine art . Retrieved 24 Oct 2013.
  40. ^ "On Tour, 2013–xiv". Montreal Museum of Fine Arts . Retrieved 9 Jan 2014.
  41. ^ Traill-Nash, Glynis (17 October 2014). "Jean Paul Gaultier's world tour stop at NGV 'best ever'". world wide web.theaustralian.com. The Australian. Retrieved thirty May 2015.
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  43. ^ "Jean-Paul Gaultier à Cali Exposhow". world wide web.ambafrance-co.org. Ambassade de France à Bogota. Archived from the original on 30 May 2015. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  44. ^ Smith, Lauren. "Jean Paul Gaultier to shut ready to wear label". www.glamourmagazine.co.uk. Glamour. Retrieved thirty May 2015.
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  46. ^ "Aow Tou Dou Zat – Jean Paul Gaultier | Songs, Reviews, Credits, Awards". AllMusic. Retrieved 25 August 2014.
  47. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier – Aow Tou Dou Zat". www.discogs.com. Discogs. Retrieved xxx May 2015.
  48. ^ Rahab, Kafia (29 April 2008). "Jean-Paul Gaultier animateur à fifty'Eurovision". melty (in French). Retrieved 10 August 2020.
  49. ^ "Anggun echoes the Baku Crystal Hall". 19 May 2012. Eurovision.tv. Retrieved 2 June 2012.
  50. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier Explains the Eurovision Vocal Contest". The Cutting . Retrieved x August 2020.
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  52. ^ "The Jury of the 65th Festival de Cannes". festival-cannes.com. Cannes Pic Festival. Archived from the original on 24 May 2012. Retrieved 25 April 2012.
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  56. ^ Noor, Hibah (nine February 2015). "Puig and Shiseido to terminate Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance license". DutyFree Mag . Retrieved 17 March 2020.
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  58. ^ Pawson, Helen (26 June 2017). "Notes on a Scandal: Puig unveils new Jean Paul Gaultier feminine fragrance". The Moodie Davitt Report. Retrieved nineteen March 2020.
  59. ^ Verb eke, Alain (2013). International Business Strategy (2 ed.). Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. p. 127. ISBN978-1107355279.
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  61. ^ "Les Males range". Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved 11 May 2020.
  62. ^ "Scandal range". Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved 11 May 2020.
  63. ^ Reuters. "Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit in Paris showcases designer's avant-garde creations, inspirations". www.nydailynews.com. NY Daily News. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  64. ^ "Les cinq univers de Jean Paul Gaultier". La Presse (in French). 16 November 2010. Retrieved 15 September 2020.
  65. ^ Levi Cooper, "Women in shtreimels," The Jerusalem Mail service, Feb 10, 2017
  66. ^ "#GrannyHair: Why is everyone dyeing their pilus grayness?". Archived from the original on 12 January 2022. Retrieved x August 2016.
  67. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier retrospective". www.elle.com. Elle. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  68. ^ [2] Archived 30 September 2007 at the Wayback Machine
  69. ^ "For The Record: Quick News On Marilyn Manson And Jean Paul Gaultier, Os Crusher, Cam'ron, Pearl Jam, Jimi Hendrix & More". MTV. 28 Apr 2003. Retrieved 31 October 2007.
  70. ^ Goncalves, Julien (1 April 2015). "Exposition Jean-Paul Gaultier : Madonna et Mylène Farmer à fifty'honneur". www.chartsinfrance.net. Chartsinfrance.net. Retrieved xxx May 2015.
  71. ^ "Marion Cotillard in Jean Paul Gaultier – 10 All-time Oscar Dresses". InStyle. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  72. ^ "Marion Cotillard'due south Oscar Wearing apparel, From Runway to Red Carpet". fabsugar.com. 26 Feb 2008. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  73. ^ a b c d "Jean-Paul Gaultier, from the sidewalk to the catwalk".
  74. ^ "Jean-Paul Gaultier's greatest glory moments". Wonderland. Apr 2015.
  75. ^ Rapp, Linda. "Cheung, Leslie (1956-2003)". www.glbtq.com. glbtq.com. Archived from the original on 28 May 2014. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  76. ^ "Nik Thakkar for Jean Paul Gaultier". Wonderland. ix October 2013.
  77. ^ "Metropolis". www.ngv.vic.gov.au. National Gallery of Victoria. Archived from the original on 30 May 2015. Retrieved 30 May 2015.
  78. ^ Jean Paul Gaultier: Freak and Chic (2018) Dircetor Yann L'Hénoret

External links [edit]

  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Tous les défilés Jean-Paul Gaultier en images – Madame Figaro
  • Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition

crawfordmagand.blogspot.com

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier

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